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NISMO's Competition Series Motor Oil - Just Overpriced Motul?

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So this past Saturday, I stopped by at my go-to Nissan dealer, or more precisely, the Nissan Prince Motorsports Division (which is basically a sub group of select Nissan dealer technical advisors and extremely experienced ex-race mechanics who really know all about Nissan's sports cars.  Oh and they are R32 and R33 GT-R owners too!).  Since purchasing my car back in 2006 until I moved out of Tokyo, I had all of my servicing (except for the MINE'S engine, of course) done by them. So they know me and my car, but more importantly I trust them!

When Nissan Prince Motorsports Division was located at Nissan Shinagawa
- note my Shinagawa number plate vs my current personalized Yokohama plate!
NPMD used to be located at Nissan Shinagawa but is now at Nissan Kamedo, which means an extra 15 minutes of driving for me.  But it's always nice to drop in for a nerd RB-centric chat, although this was only the second time I dropped in since they had moved to Kamedo 3 years ago!  This time, I was picking up some parts for a future project I had ordered on my first visit a few weeks ago, and it was a busy day so they let me park in one of the work bays.

In addition to these 3, there was a dark grey R33 GTR outside when I pulled in.
FOUR R33s together is rare, even here in Japan!
Well hello younger (normal tune) brother...nice wheels you got there.
Since I had some time to kill, I decided to see if my friend Thomas Mangum was correct about NISMO's Competition Oil.



There are three grades of engine oil in the Competition series (5W40 for theVR38DETT engine, 15W50 for tuned RB26DETTs, and 0W30 for the VQ35DE/VQ35SHR), and one grade of gearbox oil (75W140).  Here is the link to the line-up website.  All were developed in conjunction with MOTUL, who as fans of NISMO Racing know, have had a relationship with Nissan since 2003.  Interestingly, NISMO also has a separate, Motul based 10W60 grade oil (found in their catalog only, no dedicated website like the Competition series), designed especially for the RB26DETT engine, but for street use/ non-tuned engines.  Apparently all of these replace their long running "Veruspeed" oil series.

Anyway, a few weeks ago I had gone to Zama to pick up a few things from Thomas. Naturally, we took some photos:



Oh and check this out, I found an old photo from 4 years ago!
From: http://www.r33gt-r.com/2011/06/new-feature-guest-blog-r33-gtr-owner.html
In 4 years, our cars sure have changed... but that's a topic for another post!

Anyway, when I met up with him, Thomas, who is a stickler for this kind of stuff, threw me a half used bottle of Motul 300V Competition 15W50 and sniffed, "You can have that, I only use NISMO oil now." I had to laugh, it's the same thing, just with the NISMO name on the bottle (and thus 150% more expensive), right? I mean NISMO doesn't make their own stuff, they just rebrand tuning parts made especially for them by famous specialists (e.g., it is widely accepted as truth that ARC makes the NISMO intercoolers) and charge a premium for the name.

But Thomas swore to me that his car's engine "felt better" and that it felt "slicker, more responsive" than before when he used Motul 300V Competition 15W-50.  When I asked him to clarify - does that mean the engine feels better lubricated, he replied, "I don't know if the words 'more lubricated' is right - it felt as though the engine just came on boost faster, and much smoother."

So when I was at NPMD on Saturday, I asked: is there actually a difference? A measurable difference between the NISMO Competition oil and the MOTUL 300V?
Courtesy of: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/userid/338959/car/239984/2458609/parts.aspx
First, it turns out that NISMO already has a 10W60 grade oil especially for the RB26DETT, as I mentioned earlier.  However, the NISMO Competition 15W50 is designed for some tuned RB26DETT engines - this oil is what NISMO recommends for their S1/R1 crate engines, much like the Competition 5W40 oil is THE oil (GT-R logo included) Nissan designates for the R35 GT-R (as well as the NISMO S2/R2 engines).  But all the tech could really tell me was, "it has different, better stuff in it." Fair enough, he's not a chemist, so let's see what NISMO themselves say in their online catalog.

The English translation is pretty good but not completely accurate. I think it should read like this (go ahead and compare with what NISMO has in the catalog):

Concept Behind the Base Oil:
This is an ester based oil with polymer esters mixed in.  We used know-how from Motul's Double Ester Technology in order to compensate for poor low temperature viscosity performance, a weakness of complex ester oils.

Allowable Torque: Set to Approx 70kgf-m (around 600ps).

-This is a high performance engine oil, developed during tuning car races and drifting events for turbo charged engines such as the RB26DETT and SR20DET.
-  This has high shear stability in order to prevent the oil film from breaking at high torque at low speeds.  Even with the extreme increase in torque found in NOS injection a high degree of reliability has been proven by way of sufficient durability.
- To provide for reliability without sacrificing the engine output as much as possible, a special multifunction polymer was used which increases both shear stability and detergent dispersion. With this, not only is there oil film protection but this also improves the lubrication of the turbo bearings which tend to coke up at high temperatures.

So the catalog's English is a bit more optimistic sounding, I think. But what is really interesting is in the small print, as usual, not just for this grade but the others as well.  For example, Nissan Motor Company does NOT guarantee any of the Competition series oil, because it's designed for track use (it also does not guarantee the non Competition 10W60, but gives no reason - probably because they don't make it?).  Also, for track use, one should use the 5W40 or 15W50 blend if one has a NISMO crate engine.  The 5W40 blend, which is the "official" oil for the R35 (including the GT-R RC and NISMO GT3 variants) and cars with the Nismo S2/R2 engines, should be changed at 3000kms if there is track use or 10,000km if street use.  With the 10W60 (non-Competition), the recommended change is at 6000kms for general all purpose use.  For 15W50 and 0W30, the recommended change is at 3000kms.  For all of the oil, Nissan warns that it will not exchange any dented or slightly damaged cans, as this product is imported.

Given the small print here is what I think we can figure out.
1) Made by Motul, in France.

2) The descriptions for the 5W40 and 0W30 blends state the reduced use of detergent dispersants.  I am guessing that this is true of the 15W50, even if it doesn't say so.   This explains the recommendation to change at a very low 3000kms, regardless of use (even though the presumption is track use, I did not see that written anywhere for this mileage recommendation). Note the 10W60 which is for general use, mandates a 6000kms oil change frequency.

3) The data doesn't lie - the coefficients of kinematic viscosity (in mm^2/s) are listed as follows for all 4 NISMO engine oils:
     a) 5W40 - at 40C is 85.2, and at 100C is 14.2 (with a viscosity index of 172)
     b) 15W50 - at 40C is 125.9, and at 100C is 17.7 (with a viscosity index of 156)
     c)  0W30 - at 40C is 50.9, and at 100C is 9.6 (with a viscosity index of 176)
     d) 10W60- at 40C is 153.1, and at 100C is 24.1 (with a viscosity index of 190)

Comparing to what I found from Motul for their 300V Competition 15W50:
Viscosity (in mm^2/s) at 40C is 128.1, and at 100C is 17.8 (with a viscosity index of 154). The density at 20C is 0.88 (same as the NISMO) and the pour point is -36C (again same as the NISMO).

Conclusion: assuming the same measuring standards were used, by the numbers, a NEGLIGIBLE difference. Any difference would have to come from the additives (or lack thereof), as NISMO itself  claims.

4) For the R35, the mileage recommendations makes sense. The VR38DETT is built to a much higher level of tolerances and smaller clearances than the old RB26DETT. So track use is probably more of a heat issue than a friction issue, as it would be both in an RB26.  Thus if there is not much heat (i.e. street use only) they can get away with less detergent being used in the oil, and thus go a longer distance.

When I checked on the Japanese car blog site Minkara, I found people who had used the oil and posted their impressions.  One person said his engine is very quiet now, but the stuff turns black by 1000kms (again this might be consistent with the reduced level of detergents?).  Another said that, it could be half placebo effect, but his engine starts easier, runs better and there is less drag.

I knew none of the above technical stuff when I was at NPMD, however mainly on the fact that I knew my car was due for an oil/filter change, I went ahead and had my oil changed with the NISMO Competition 15W50 (the oil viscosity grade that MINE'S recommends for their built engines):
I guess oil changes are done with the mere mortals....
Good company though - check out that grey BNR32...

Whew. One of the world's best GT-R mechanics, Yamada-san from NPMD, working on my car
(here he is replacing the front under tray).
Love how much my under chassis cleaning efforts from a few weeks before paid off!!! SO CLEAN! Lol
My impressions?

To be honest, when I first cranked the engine after the oil change, the engine DID seem to be a bit quieter, and it felt SLIGHTLY more responsive.  Now that I've studied the numbers, I would, however, be the first to admit that this is likely a placebo effect, and probably more likely due to FRESH oil being put in!  However, any little bit helps and so even if there is a small but unnoticeable benefit I'm happy. And the NISMO explanation, sure, I'll believe it (for now lol).

Done, and ready to be driven home... Yamada-san (with the clipboard) ready to give me his report
Finally, there is a more practical reason to be happy with the switch - when I looked online, I found that NISMO Competition oil to be priced (at discount) about 20% LESS than the Motul I was using before in the past (for oil changes I do myself, of course).  And since I don't drive my car that much, 3000km intervals isn't too often...

Engine Airbox Snorkel Refresh

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I can't recall exactly when I realized that rubber/foam on the airbox snorkel had begun to fail, or even start looking bad. I think it was always in the back of my mind, but I wasn't really inclined to do anything until I saw this photo, from a Speedhunters postthat Dino did when our friend Thomas and I joined him for a spirited drive up in Izu (the Toyo Tires Turnpike, to be exact) a couple of years ago.  I can't believe thousands saw this photo, with certain parts that need to be refreshed/replaced. How embarrassing! (and never mind the home made cold air intakeI had attempted...I swear it works though!)

Yellow arrows point to the foam I'm talking about.
This photo HAD inspired me to replace, with new parts, some parts shown above that had degraded.  But I had somehow just forgotten about the foam on the air snorkel.

So yes, while I do like to maintain a clean car, you just tend to forget about things under the hood... however, a few weeks ago, I was "window shopping" at my local hardware store when I spotted this:
Ok hard to tell what it is, but it's a waterproof "seal flex molding" with double stick tape,
used by professionals for home construction as well as on cars. 
Not only was this rubber foam stuff water-proof, but it appeared to have the same sponginess as what was on the snorkel.  I had to guess on the width however.

Anyway, first step was to get rid of the ugly worn out foam:
wow that is ugly...
Turns out that the double stick tape used originally was still there. I discovered this as I pulled at the foam.  And we all know that a clean surface is needed for a good double sided tape install, right?

I now suspect that this foam is NOT OEM.. but luckily the underlying tape could still be peeled off
Thus, all I had to do was to pull up on the tape portion (as the foam portion was brittle):
Feels good to remove ugliness
Done! Needs to be cleaned up a bit however.
 I wonder what melted on the upper left side?? Time to hunt for a new snorkel...

Here is a better photo of the rubber foam tape I used, on top of the now cleaned up snorkel
Carefully applying the new foam tape...
which actually turned out to have much higher density...I would argue that this is better to prevent air from leaking?
The replacement foam tape was fairly dense, so it wasn't as flexible as the foam I just removed. So it took some slow going and convincing for the foam to mold to the shape of the snorkel:
Not bad, not bad at all sir...

So here it is, all done. Extremely easy job.  I think this looks even better and perhaps closer to OEM than what was on before?



Anyone have a link to a photo of a brand new OEM snorkel?

Administrative Announcement! (Google Translate Function Added)

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Everyone -

For those who'd rather read my blog in his native language - I've installed the Google Translate button on the very top right!

Obviously, Google Translate is not perfect, but in some cases it might make reading this blog a bit easier. 

It's been awhile since I looked into improving the format of this blog - if there is anything else I can do let me know please!

And yes, I have a post coming up, as soon as I take a decent photo of the item in question I will post!

A JDM Modernization - The Road Flare

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Those of you who have imported a used JDM spec car from Japan have probably seen this, usually located on the side kick panel on the passenger side:



Yes, it's a road flare. Required by Japanese law to be installed on each car, and something inspected at the biannual "shaken" inspection (required to keep the car registered).

I discovered from some internet research that, while each car must have one on board, no one really bothers to check the expiration date.  This is probably why when I pulled mine out the other day, I realized to my horror that, as you can see, the flare's "use by" date was April 2009!

Although, I'm not too sure flares can go stale?

In any case, a regular flare is only about 600 yen, and sold pretty much at all gas stations and car parts stores nationwide. So it would be easy to replace, but then I wouldn't be posting this.

What I found is this following - an LED flare!  And for not much more either, about 1000 yen.
Uses 9 LEDs, with 3 different mounting methods (for trucks, cars and kei- cars)
Clearly labelled as "compliant with Ministry of Transport safety regulations"

Hard to believe, but this is Shaken-compliant. According to the manufacturer, this LED version has several advantages over the standard flare:

1.) LED light stays on for over 20 hours, versus 5 minutes for a standard flare
2.) just twist the bottom to turn on. No need to remove the cap and ignite the fuse
3.) with battery changes, basically lasts forever. Standard flare - only 4 years
4.) waterproof in normal use, and in the rain. Standard flare - easily extinguished
5.) safe to use, just turn on. Standard flare, you run risk of secondary burns.
6.) LED produces no smoke, can use in tunnels. Smoke in flare can be an obstacle
7.) LED not regulated, while flares are subject to the Explosives Control Act.

Also - they don't mention that it has a magnetic base, so you could have it stuck to your car rather than thrown onto the road somewhere... although that presents another issue, you have to remember to turn it off when you are done, you can't just leave it to burn out!

With no expiration date, I'll only have to worry about the batteries - although the obvious question here is - why haven't car manufacturers made a rechargeable LED flare that plugs into its own exclusive outlet in the car?

The other worry is, can the LED be BRIGHTER than the flare? I mean, that's the real issue, right? I mean this photo doesn't really inspire much confidence...
from http://mimmim.net/r56-bmw-mini/20111124/5635/

Although this manufacturer explanation appears to make it sound like it would work:


Finally, I've never heard of a flare going off by itself and catching fire, but to me it seems possible with a chemically based one. An LED one should be safer...anyway installation, of course is easy:



In any case apologies for the short post. I do have a few other projects waiting in the wings...just got an interesting email today on a custom part I've been waiting on... they tell me it will be ready by mid August...before then will have a few other items to post, too! Stay tuned...

A New Addition to My Garage!

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But not to worry, I'm keeping the GT-R and of course the mods WILL continue - in fact I have a few in the pipeline already...

This new car will be more for family and business use, meaning I can treat the GT-R even more like the garage queen it is!

Check out what I bought - yes, I started another blog - I think most will agree that, after owning a GT-R, this is the kind of  "family" car that makes sense for me.

My Other Blog. Take a look and let me know what you think!



 

Everybody Needs A Little Time Away...

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Or so the song goes - a short break from a relationship and you come back feeling stronger about the object of your affections.

Since I bought the ISF, yes I had driven the Lexus on a few trips, both personal and business, and had gotten used to its driving characteristics - and even though I think the ISF needs sharper feeling handling, admittedly it is easier to drive around town and is more luxurious than the GT-R.

Even last time I went to Nissan Prince Motorsports (now no longer in Shinagawa but Kameido), I drove the Lexus:
No one there seemed to know what this car was...
This was because I had accompanied my friend Thomas who was dropping off his Midnight Purple R33 GT-R off for some maintenance, and I had some other chores to run that day as well.

But this morning would be different - not only was Thomas' car ready to get picked up, but I wanted them to do some work on my car, and the part I had ordered had FINALLY come in:

Both look great in their respective ways.
 So after Thomas came over, we drove over together and about 45 minutes later:
Just experimenting with taking photos in shadow
I have to say, driving the r33 is truly awesome. I was so happy to be back behind the wheel.  The engine, the noise, the feeling - all awesome!

Body rigidity is still a bit better in the Lexus, but the throttle response in the r33 (NOT drive-by-wire) was precise with no lag, the RB engine's pull from low to high when the turbos kicked in, the way the car handles, low to the ground and with the Ohlins dampers, the whole package is nice. The steering is heavier in the r33, but there is so much more communication to the driver.   Of course, while the driving dynamics were great the exhaust noise really did get tiring after awhile - I may have to do something about the exhaust - the Blitz E-ESC works but only when I'm stopped at a light.  Oh and weird but I still think the seats in the r33 are better (more comfortable) than those in the ISF, which themselves aren't bad.  Put it this way, once I sit down in the 33, I don't need to move or adjust. In the Lexus, this week I learned that I readjust (shift my position, etc.) after about an hour.
Was actually another nice sunny day
Anyway, once we got there I immediately engaged in conversation with the Motorsports Division staff.  Meanwhile Thomas got his car back, all problems he was concerned with were fixed and he was happy. While tuners are great, it's the dealerships, especially those who have a Motorsports Division, who know how to actually fix the stuff that isn't drivetrain or suspension related...
Nice rear end shot of Thomas fiddling with his Aerocatch latch.
The car is actually quite dirty...
Because I had an appointment with them:
Circled in red is my name and my car's license plate digits - it's nice to be welcomed in writing!
And so I mentioned to Nefuji-san, chief of the Motorsports Division, all the work that was needed, large and small, which I figured could be taken care of while they installed the new part.

One of the items was to see if they could figure out how my front tire wouldn't rub on full lock.  I had tried some ideas but it didn't do much.  Another was to order, if they still exist, an OEM Series 3 lip (for my collection).  There is also the hose that Mine's replaced earlier this year - but not with the silicon (i.e. longer life) hose as I had wanted. We also discussed some future plans for the car, which of course I will document here in this blog but is probably a few years down the road.

Anyway once all the requests were in, I bid my car farewell:
They had already moved my car into the Motorsports service bay, out of the sun...
Oh, and for those of you who are asking what part I'm having installed? Well, I'll give you a hint - take a look at those boxes on the left, the answer is contained therein...

Update - I Got Lucky! (aka Additional Work to be done at Nissan Prince Tokyo)

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For any of us car guys living here in Japan, Yahoo Auctions is basically a way of life. You can find some pretty good deals, if you know how to search, happen to have the money, and move quickly enough to bid and win.

The stars DID line up for me last week. I hadn't spent time on YA in a while, figuring that while my car was at Nissan Prince Motorsports I didn't need anything extra.

Until I found this going for an initial bid of 1 yen!



Ok so why are you excited about a black hood Aki?

So what, you might say. There are several BCNR33 hoods being offered on YA any day of the week. That is true, however THIS one is really special.

First, it's an OEM Nissan hood.  Second, the seller claims it was unused. Third, it's for an N1 spec car. This explains the holes at the leading edge of the hood, predrilled. I am not sure if there are any other differences between the standard car or the N1, but OEM and unused were VERY attractive features for me!
5 holes...hopefully this means no one else bids... but I was wrong.

Caveat on the UNUSED - due to storage there are some scratches so the seller said "no OCD people." Oh well...
Extremely clean - definitely hasn't been used and is paint ready!
I actually had planned on installing what Nissan calls the "Hood Top Molding" (or hood spoiler or bonnet lip as I've seen it on English language forums), so I had purchased an OEM one a long time ago. 

Here is the part number...note the "U21" is the code for KR4, as these are pre-painted!

double checking it's the right color!
However I had never gotten around to installing it.  I had been meaning to have my hood repainted, not just because there were some rock chips but also because it appeared that someone had, at one time, sat on the hood and left a slight crease in it, right above the right headlamp.  But, when I asked for quotes to fix it, the answer was always "it'd be easier and cheaper to repaint a used non-damaged hood or a new one." I had actually bought a cheaply priced used hood at auction previously, but it turned out that it also was banged up.  So, the Hood Top Molding stayed in the box all this time.

But when I saw this N1 hood at auction, I had to get it.  The buy it now price was 40,000 yen, so despite some others trying to get it as cheaply as possible, I simply bought it at the "buy it now" price.   However, I was still a bit nervous that, photos aren't everything and people don't always tell the truth when selling stuff at auction.

Earlier today (Monday) however, I got a call from Yamazaki-san at Nissan Prince Motorsports. The hood had already arrived (I had bid on Friday!), and further, it was as described - a few scratches and a small dent but nothing that couldn't be relatively easily fixed, it has to be painted anyway! To test the fit, and to double check the quality, they already replaced the hood on the car with this N1 one, and the car is now being sent to the paint shop. Hopefully there are no issues but I will post here if there are!

Meanwhile, I've sent the Hood Top Molding to them so hopefully it arrives on Wednesday.

Oh, and Yamazaki-san mentioned that the work (the Nissan/NISMO part installation) for when the car was actually taken there for, was already done, so now all that was left was this bodywork. Good timing!

So, when I pick up my car (whenever that is), I will have not just the part I mentioned installed, but this hood newly painted, with Hood Top Molding, so the car will LOOK better than when I dropped it off, and one long standing blemish which annoyed me every time I looked at it, will be GONE.

Stay tuned for more updates... 


NISMO GETRAG Conversion Kit for R32/R33 GT-Rs

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This post was a long time in the making.  Back in August, I posted this hint - I was being vague on purpose as to what my car was at Nissan Prince for:
Two boxes full of goodness!
A close up would have revealed:

Here is a REAL close-up! 
For those who guessed correctly, yes this close-up of the boxes that the transfer and the transmission came in would have revealed what was going on! Yes folks, it's the NISMO GETRAG Conversion Kit for the R32/R33 GT-Rs!

Turns out, these Conversion Kits are "made to order" - so I had actually placed my order back in June but it wasn't until August that the parts were all ready to go. So really, this whole process started back when I did this post about NISMO's engine oil. You didn't really think I went to Nissan Prince for just an oil change, did you?

(The reason I installed a new gearbox was, as longtime reader stj88 guessed in the comment below, my OEM gearbox was on its last legs. I was having trouble shifting from 3 to 4, or 4 down to 3, so I would sometimes skip 4 altogether and just shift into 5th directly from 3.  This had been going on for the past 2-3 years but had been getting progressively worse. Plus, it felt to me that the transfer was slipping too...)

Then, although the installation of the Kit itself only took a week, not only did a custom part for the Getrag take longer than expected (the Robson item below),  I got lucky with the N1 bonnet, which required having the car in the paint shop for awhile, plus I was away for a couple of weeks, so from start to finish the car was at Nissan Prince for about a month.

For those who want a refresher or just more information about the GETRAG kit, check out this link on NISMO's English website.

In any case, here is what the Kit looks like:
From: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/mission/getrag.html
In addition to the transfer case and the transmission itself, the kit comes with a BNR34 front driveshaft, a "NISMO" r32/r33 rear drive shaft (somehow I doubt anything special was done to it), and BNR34 transmission mount and cross member. There are other bits and pieces too as explained in the NISMO link above.

I actually had the dealership take photos of the work during the install. Unfortunately, they appear to have wiped the computer clean, as the jpegs could not be found. But, they HAD printed out some small photos which I scanned back in - hence the low quality, but I think you get the idea:
About to start work- still with old hood/bonnet (I can tell)
Lower the old transmission
Close up of old transmission
Side view
Old clutch removed
Here is a better photo of my old transmission, removed, that I took:
Waiting to go to a good home...
New clutch installed
Those magic words
Very pretty!

When I arrived to pick up the car, the first thing I saw when I looked inside the car was this:
Note the shift knob boot - custom made by Robson. Too bad they didn't ask me about what color stitching I wanted...
A closer inspection of the shift knob shows:
Call me weird but I don't like that GT-R logo there... wrong font for the BCNR33!
Lastly - before I could get in the car and drive home, they had me sign an application Nissan is going to submit to the department of motor vehicles on my behalf- changing out the transmission is considered a major change to the car, so technically my car is no longer a "BCNR33" - it's now a "BCNR33改" (the character is read "kai" from 改造 (kaizo) meaning modified so it's a BCNR33-kai). The paperwork they submit demonstrates to the authorities that the gear ratio has changed but is still within x% of normal, only weighs y more kgs, doesn't change the overall dimensions of the car, etc.

Ok so enough of the install - the all important question - HOW DOES IT DRIVE?

Well, it's like being in 1/2 lower gear in the 5 speed, all the time. Acceleration of the car is instantaneous. Expected when the rear ratio is still 4.11:1.

The engine is turning at above 2000 rpm at most speeds, meaning that that it picks up quickly, acceleration comes on much more quickly, but yes probably worse gas mileage and noisier on the expressway.   Does it bother me? Honestly, yes a little. But I'm not about to spend another 450,000 yen for NISMO's 3.916 gear set, which if you look at the graph, really only changes things by about 500rpm or so.

I guess to make it perfect, I would really only want to change 6th gear to be an overdrive to allow for relatively quiet and low rpm cruising on the expressway - right now it is a literal "point and shoot" weapon even in 6th, given how quickly the car accelerates. The other gearing is fine as is.

In any case, I was told that I have to break this new transmission in - and that this would take about 1000kms.  Given how little I drive my car, not sure how long that will take, but it DOES give me an excuse to take the car out more often.

There are other small details that bother me too (in addition to the stitch color I mentioned above).  The gear shift itself is tall - remember for the OEM gearbox I had installed NISMO's solid shift gear shifter which is 7.5mm shorter in length and gives a more solid feel when shifting.  Not sure who makes a short/solid shifter for the Getrag box but will have to see if I can find one.

Anyway, the fun continues as I break in the gearbox and make the necessary improvements!

In my next post I'll go more into detail about that N1 bonnet...


Update... Changing Out the (Robson Leather) Shift Boot

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As I hinted at in my last post, the one thing I did not like about the NISMO GETRAG transmission kit upgrade for my car was the shift boot that had to be custom made by Robson Leather for the R33.  While Robson Leather products are fine (I have some of their carbon products on my car), I was not happy with the stitching color (I would have gone for red or black), and the leather they used felt, frankly, a bit cheap, almost "pleather" like.  It didn't have the nice leather smell, either...Oh and that snap button... WHY?


Anyway, I was told at the time I picked up the car was, that the R34 shift boot did not fit the R33 because the cut for the base was different for the cars.  I didn't really know what this meant, but figured it must be how the boot is connected to the base. Conversely, the R33 one wouldn't fit for the GETRAG because of the pull up switch for reverse, which necessitates a cut out (and thus the snap button) in order to be able to fit the boot over the shift lever.

Since I had found success with replacing the OEM shift boot and parking brake boot a long time ago - in fact back in 2006, before I even started this blog - I went back and checked to see which company I had bought the set from, and to hope they were still in business and I could order a modified one to replace this Robson set.

I found that RedlineGoods was still in business, and after chatting with the owner Mike a bit, ordered a black leather, black stitch shift boot modified to fit the R33 base. Or so I thought.

Looks and smells great!
About 10 days after I placed my order (as you can see pricing is fantastic!) I received the shift boot in the mail. Just like my parking brake boot, the leather LOOKED like leather and smelled fantastic (i.e. expensive).  

I should note that, one reason that Robson Leather's leather may not have smelled like leather is that Japanese consumers generally do NOT like the smell of leather, and so car manufacturers do their best to eliminate that smell from leather interiors. (Really!  Have to "fix" that on my Lexus...)

Anyway, once I had a free evening I went ahead and unscrewed the BNR34 shift knob from the lever, then by removing that one screw behind the ashtray, disassembled the shift boot surround, and also removed the center console in order to get access to the hand brake boot (oh and I had to repair the switch for the rear diffuser fog lamp too).

See those metal clips? Have to remove them first
First order of business was to remove the metal clips holding in the Robson Leather shift boot from the surround.  Note, yes, one clip was missing...

After removing these clips, all I had to do was peel off the leather and begin installation of the Redline boot.  Simple, except...

Ok, something doesn't line up...
Unfortunately, it appears that Redline had sent me a standard BNR34 boot, not one modified as requested (and paid for, actually). This meant that I had to punch my own holes to get the boot to fit on the pins properly.

As for the hand brake boot, that was relatively straightforward - all I had to do was remove the Robson Leather one and replace back with what had been there previously, the 10 year old Redline one.

Just make sure the metal ring fits snugly... will "snap" in.
The end result looks like this:

Done! Wait, something still doesn't look quite right...

Much improved (I think)! Note, no more snap button - strategic use of Velcro is a much needed improvement. Although, it's interesting how the 10 year old Redline handbrake boot has more sheen compared to the brand new shift lever boot.  I will try to use some leather cleaner/preservative on the new boot and see if things don't even out. If not, I will simply order a new hand brake boot.

Also I note that the OEM, original handbrake handle itself looks very shiny. I actually have a solution to this, hopefully I will be posting that soon!

Finally - for those who care to comment - do you think I made the right decision with the black stitching? I was thinking about red stitching in order to match the "R" logo and the red LED lighting I've done to the key surround and the doors(as well as the OEM red material seats) but thought a subtle, OEM look would be more in line with my car...

Look What I Found...from the NIssan Prince Tokyo Motorsports Divison Blog

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In doing some research on the N1 bonnet and the bonnet lip, I stumbled upon this:

From: http://ameblo.jp/nptms/entry-12069011157.html
Taken from the Nissan Prince Tokyo Motorsports Division Blog... must have been a slow day, or actually since Koyama-san who writes the blog is a 33 owner himself, must have decided this looks kind of cool...

Actually, I have to agree, a black hood/bonnet DOES go well with the KR4 silver... Obviously after the GETRAG install they were transporting the car to the paint shop to paint the N1 hood.  Nice to see that they add ZERO miles in the process, and use a proper flatbed too!

I'll have more on the hood, and the paint job soon. Before that though, a somewhat BLING thing I added...

NOT HAPPY.... But New Parts Make Everything OK

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Long time readers will recall an incident from last year, when a water hose feeding the OEM oil cooler burst, leaking coolant everywhere, causing lots of white smoke to emanate from the engine bay, scaring me into pulling over at the side of the expressway, and calling for a flatbed truck to haul me to Mine's. See below for the two water hoses feeding the oil cooler (underlined in red).



Here is the link to that post. And here is a close-up of what burst:


As I explained in that post, even though I'm thrilled with the craftsmanship of the Mine's engine, and the performance nature of the custom VX-ROM, I've had several issues with some engine peripherals since the installation... a leaking water line, turbo oil lines breaking twice, and now this burst hose.

Also in that post and also in the conclusion, I hinted at some "goodies" that ended up not getting installed.

But it was all ok, Mine's got the car fixed and everything seemed to be fine.

However, when Nissan Prince was getting ready to install the GETRAG kit, they found this (and again, apologies for poor photo quality, I had to scan in the print-outs Nissan Prince gave me):

Surface rust only perhaps, but still ugly.
The engine starter, covered with surface rust.  And the rust was coming from above, right where Mine's had replaced that leaking hose. Hmm. Not happy - why?

Well, take a look:
Red arrow is the hose Mine's replaced
But it's THIS hose that's leaking now!
Now, while my car never had any problems when I turned the ignition key and the engine would crank over, the mechanics were worried that, eventually, if the coolant dripped more and the rust spread, then there could be a detrimental effect and the starter "might go bad." Sure, sure, whatever. BUT, to me this was a legitimate reason to replace the starter with a new (or in this case, a rebuilt one). A new one was crazy expensive but a rebuilt was less than $200 if I recall correctly, so I had them install one while the transmission was lowered and that area was easily accessible.

And, I figured this would finally be my chance to install this:
Full SAMCO heater hose kit.
I had actually ordered, and obtained, this SAMCO heater hose kit in BLACK from my friend Wouter, in order to go for a stealthy look in the engine bay. However, with the car at Nissan, while I could have mailed in those black hoses, I simply asked Nissan to get and install what they had in stock, which were the normal blue set (reordering a black set would take a few weeks - from overseas - and I was too busy at work to send in mine) in order to get the main job of the transmission swap done ASAP.

So, now the underside looks like this:
Uh, wait a second, that's not exactly what I had in mind...
So I was under the impression that this heater hose kit, replaced the two hoses that had leaked. Apparently not (the mechanics had called me and told me this, but I figured might as well replaced everything that is old and likely to burst anyway).  So, eventually I will have to find some silicon hoses to replace these going into the OEM heat exchange.

In the meantime, I'm happy to report that the car now starts up like a motorcycle - i.e. very little resistance, it just fires up very quickly.  So in addition to the 6 speed, the car now start up like new and has some blue bling where most people will never see it.

Controversial Interior Mod?? (gasp) Bling?

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Yes folks, I'm pretty sure some of you are not going to like this one. But hear me out!

Truth be told, this post was also long in the making - not only did it take 3 months for this made-to-order part to be made, right after I did get them I didn't have time to install them before taking the GT-R in for its new transmission.  Then, various business trips etc. have kept me from finishing the install and posting.  In any case, excuses are done, here is the post.

Now I realize some people will think this is not tasteful, nor functional, and others will call it "bling" (hence the title), but for me, I always felt that Nissan just had not gone quite far enough to differentiate the R33 GT-R from its non GT-R brothers.  So I took a clue from what Nissan did for the BNR34.

Perhaps to detract from the lower grade (harder= cheap?) interior plastic (than the 33), the R34 GT-R has nice aluminum side sills which scream "GT-R" the moment you open the door. Just in case you didn't know what you were getting into, I guess.


Thanks to EJ for letting me post these both.
From: http://www.jdmautolink.net/2012/10/kick-panel-door-sill-bnr34-2.html

On the other hand, the R32 and R33 GT-Rs have, in deference to (or perhaps because of) their heritage as the fully factory tuned versions of the non GT-R forms of the R32/R33, these ugly cheap/cheap looking plastic door sills with "Skyline" inscribed on them (i.e. we don't need bling to sell the car?).


Now while there WAS a dealer installed option for aluminum side sills (called "kicking plates" in Japanese) for the R33, which you can find on the used market, they still look cheap to me.

From: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/userid/679019/car/579033/4441853/parts.aspx

And the aftermarket offers carbon fiber and leather wrapped versions too.
From: http://stores.ebay.com/yachant2011?_trksid=p2047675.l2568


From: http://stores.ebay.com/TOP-GAITERS-BOOTS?_trksid=p2047675.l2563


As long time readers know, I've done some DIY LED mods to the interior, using red LEDs in the ignition key surround and door handles to match the red motif on the Series 3 seats and door cards.



And of course, I troll the internet constantly looking for ideas and products that could improve my car - lately though I have been looking to improve the interior, which is where I think modern cars have a huge advantage over older cars. In other words, I want to modernize, but without taking away the essence of Skyline-ness.

Enter "G-Corporation" - I had found these guys about a year ago, but didn't launch this project until June.  That is, I placed my order with them in June but was told that these would be made to order - so first they would be getting new parts from Nissan, and then doing the work, and the final product would take a couple of months.

Anyway, these guys are LED specialists. And the product I found was this (although this was an R34 version) - LED "kicking plates:"

From: http://www.g-corporation.co.jp/product/ledsp/index.html

But this photo only shows what it looks like in the dark. I wanted to see what they looked like in daylight, but seeing the photos of their other samples I figured, why not, looks pretty good? So I went ahead and placed the order.

So finally, when I got the box earlier in the week, even though I knew I couldn't immediately fit them, I opened up the package to see what the product looked like.
Excuse the mess, I was excited! But the aluminum plate and lettering DO look a bit small...
Here are a couple of photos, closer up:
You can see the lettering is clean, and consistent with the font that Nissan used - looks awesome actually!

Underside shows that the entire LED assembly is sealed off with a rubbery compound. 

As for wiring these pieces up, this was easier than I thought, because I had earlier, in installing LEDs for the outside and insidecourtesy lights, already created a circuit that was hooked up to the auto dimmer/fade out circuit of the car.  So it was a matter of going in and finding that circuit, and wiring up the leads from these scuff plates, hoping that they would also 1) turn on only when the car was unlocked, and 2) fade out when the car was in motion or not being used.
Not the best photo, but you can see that after I wired the door LEDs into the ignition key circuit, I used these quick disconnects to keep the installation clean.  For these scuff plates, I simply added the leads downstream, so each is wired into the wiring connected to the door LEDs, so everything is removable without damage to the original circuit.
After a bit of contortions and swearing, I managed to get it done, but first I made sure it was working:
Here I am testing it on my lap...

After confirming that the wiring worked, I just pulled off the old ones and snapped these new ones in - this is not the best picture but I think you get the idea:
Hmm. Maybe I need some mood lighting in the footwell too, like my Lexus?

Ok here is a close up on the passenger side, the red metal can above it is the fire extinguisher I keep next to the seat:
It looks like the "SKY" is brighter than the "LINE" but to the naked eye it looks even!
So yay or nay? A subtle, modern touch, I hope? Anyway as this car evolves one task will be on reducing the level of cheapness the interior has. I have some other projects coming up so stay tuned!

Quick Update: Kenwood Sound Cruising System, Pre-Wired!

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A while back, I had done a blog post on the optional Kenwood Sound Cruising System that Nissan offered on several models of the R33, including the GT-R.
The brochure has passing reference to the Kenwood system as an option (red box)
One question I had, however, upon solving the mystery of the blanks on the interior A-pillars, however, was whether Nissan provided a specialized wiring harness for cars with this option.
what you get with the Kenwood system for the tweeters

My finger pointing to the cutout
I had previously looked very closely at wiring diagrams for the BCNR33, and they suggested that the wiring harness for ALL cars, indeed had leads going up into the A pillars, whether or not the car was equipped with the Kenwood system. My car did NOT come with this option.

The easy thing to do, of course, would be to pop open the A pillar cover and check for myself, but I was always too lazy to do so - until last weekend, when I was at Nissan Prince Shinagawa on another quest to find more parts for my car.

Once talking to the technicians there as to the Kenwood system, and inquiring whether that location was indeed the best place to place tweeters at, they immediately called over one of the mechanics who popped open the A pillar cover, and we found this (red arrow) terminal clip on both sides of the car:
Ignore the other wiring, that's for the aftermarket Navi... I think...

In my excitement I forgot to take a photo, but the BACKSIDE of the A pillar had a large "X" marking the spot behind the cut-out.

So, this is exciting - it suggests that ALL BCNR33s (and possibly other R33s) are pre-wired for tweeters in the A pillars.  Now I know the purists will say that, such OEM wiring is subpar and needs to be replaced with the latest hi-end oxygen free wire yada yada, but 1) this is a car, a very NOISY car, and 2) so long as the wires can carry a signal, why bother with extra cost when the wiring is already there??

Oh and also, many people will claim that it's not the brand of the wire, but the thickness of the copper gauge of the wire. In which case, I will have to choose my tweeters carefully I guess...the problem is that here in Japan, there aren't many shops that have speakers on hand to listen to, other than the name brand "average" aftermarket speakers like Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood, etc...  Anyone have any recommendations? Would prefer separate components that can be heard over the drone of the exhaust (and yes I plan to get a separate amp for the front speakers too).

The N1 Bonnet... And "Hood Top Molding"

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Although I tried researching what, if any differences the N1 bonnet has over the stock one, I could not find anything at all. I did find a couple of photos of what the N1 car looked like, on the GTR-World website.
You can see the rear spoiler wing in carbon, but the front hood is white
What's interesting of course is that, if the N1 cars were all offered only in white, then I wonder why the replacement bonnet I bought on Yahoo Auctions was unpainted with only the black primer coat? To paint on the racing team livery? I've also seen scale models of the N1 car, with a carbon hood, but this doesn't seem to be part of the actual factory package, although it's possible there might be a factory carbon hood option Nissan offered AFTER the car went on sale which I don't know about.

Rear view - no rear wiper.
For those who don't know what an N1 car is, let's do a quick review:

Towards the end of R32 GT-R production, there was a change to the FIA Rules which essentially eliminated the Group A category by 1993.   Cars now had to be even more similar to the mass produced cars they were based on.  The result was the N1 Endurance (or Taikyu) race series, and by July 1991 the first BNR32 N1 cars were rolling off the assembly line.

So it was only natural that when the BCNR33 went on sale in 1995, there was already an N1 version available. Now, as to how many N1 cars were actually made remains a mystery that I haven't been able to solve, however my resources list out these technical differences between N1 cars and their regular road car brothers. (Reference: book, "Shingata Skyline GT-R no Subete" (translated - All About the new Skyline GT-R) published by MotorFan magazine on February 18, 1995).

To increase durability:
1. Turbo chargers used metal turbines
2. Thickness of piston second land increased from 4.0mm to 4.6mm
3. Changes to material used in con-rod bearings
4. Strengthened air inlet hosing
5. Use of air cooled oil cooler
6. Larger vanes in water pump
7. Strengthened areas around cylinder boss head bolt boss.

To increase response:
8. Thinner piston ring gap (top and second - from 1.5mm to 1.2mm)
9. Changes to cam profiles (the exhaust side overlap - 0 to 5 degrees)

To increase cooling ability:
10. Placement of 2 engine cooling slits
11. Air ducts in bumper
12. Elimination of screen in bumper
13. Placement of "hood top molding"

Chassis Related:
14. Use of multiple oil coolers (optional)

Aerodynamics related:
15. Change to shape of rear spoiler
      CD:    0.35 -> 0.35
      CLF:  0.09 -> 0.01
      CLR:  0.14 -> 0.15
(numbers are compared to standard R33 GT-R)

16.  Use of CFRP (carbon fiber reinforced plastic) front undercover.

Other than these performance upgrades, the N1 car also had no radio, no rear window wiper/washer, no UV blocking windows, no passenger airbag, and no air conditioning, all in an effort to shave excess weight off the car.

Finally, the price of the N1 car was about 1,200,000 yen more than the standard car, and 700,000 yen more than the V-Spec model (all N1 cars were based on the V-Spec). A classic case of "paying more for less"?

So, the only reference to how the hood/bonnet is different is the bonnet lip spoiler, or "hood top molding" as referenced above.

In any case, I had always been a bit annoyed since I found a slight crease on the front right leading edge of my hood - it was ever so slight, but enough to be noticeable.  My theory was, someone sat on the hood for a photo or something, and left the crease! Bastard!! And when I approached body shops to fix and repaint, the answer was always - it'd be cheaper to find another hood and paint versus trying to fix the aluminum hood. So I was resigned to trying to find a good quality used hood.

Anyway -  just when my car was at Nissan Prince to get the Getrag installed, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I found the unused N1 Bonnet on Yahoo Auctions. So I bought it and had it sent to Nissan to be installed and painted while my car was there.

(again, these were scanned in hence the poor photo quality)
This is how it arrived at the dealer
Started peeling away, good to see the whole thing was bubble wrapped!
Nothing wrong here, either!
Aha! Someone found a small bump. See it? Nope me neither...
The underside looks very clean too.... this will end up painted grey
As the wrapping comes off, looks pretty good
So this is what makes it an N1 bonnet... predrilled holes for the hood spoiler
On the underside, you can see how cleanly drilled out these holes are
Fits perfectly, of course
Actually, the black looks somewhat good!
Wonder why the trunk is open, lol
The car was then transported on a transporter, over to the paint shop, as I found out in this post.


And then when I got it back (but before the professional detail job at RAPT):

In any case, the car looks great now, and I can lay claim to having an N1 bonnet. I think if there is any homework for me, it is to explain how this bonnet lip/hood top molding works, although I suspect it simply helps to divert some air underneath the hood to help cool the engine better?

By the way - look what I picked up on Yahoo Auctions the other day (thanks to Miguel and Matty from Newera for helping me push the bid button):
Brand new N1 rear parcel shelf - note lack of rear speakers and no rear wiper cut-out - not sure if I will install...


So lucky me, I now have two brand new N1 items... not sure what else out there would work on my car, but might as well collect them for now...

Using Desiccants to Preserve/Freshen Up the GT-R Interior

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A couple of months ago during a business trip to Hong Kong I made time to meet up with my friend Matthew, who owns and actually drives one of the world's most pristine BNR32s.  Not only was his car clean and very stock looking on the outside, but the interior was super clean and moreover, smelled new!

Here is a bad photo, taken at night:

Part of that might be these new (gorgeous!) NISMO seat covers he recently installed, but in scrolling through his car build album on his Facebook page, I found that he has also this nifty trick to ensure that the perpetually humid Hong Kong air doesn't cause "stuff" to grow in his car and possibly cause some smells.  Obviously, what separates a clean car from a pristine one (OCD approved) are the details - note clever use of the coat hangar (I'll explain why this is genius down below):

From his Facebook page. Thanks Matthew!
It's currently somewhat rainy and cold in Japan (with its four seasons the country always seems to be raining every 3 months or so, with the change in seasons) and that means lots of humidity (but summer is the worst, actually). In Japan, there are many different types of these humidity reducing, desiccant containing products, usually shaped like the ones Matthew used, placed strategically throughout one's residence to keep moisture from building up - e.g. in clothes and linen closets, under sinks, etc.

Here are some of the more popular ones you can find for a few hundred yen each at your neighborhood drugstore or supermarket:


They usually come in packs of three - as they contain calcium salts which absorb water,
the white granular salts get replaced with a liquid.

Some versions also contain charcoal to further reduce smells 

Others are "flat" types that you stick directly in your clothes drawer,
however these are silica gel based so the hard crystals turn mushy. Not much drying power 
This is what happens at the end -
You have to punch a hole and pour out all of the liquid that's collected before disposing in the trash.
Caution, this is NOT water...

I had actually a long time ago purchased a car specific desiccant product, however running to AutoBacs and paying a huge premium isn't exactly the smart thing to do. Car specific models tend to be those modified "flat" types or flattened versions of the carbon/calcium salt versions designed not to tip over in a car.

As Matthew figured out, using these desiccant products is key. However, the stuff easily found, while it works well, has a tendency to tip over and possibly spill.  Thus, I was impressed by his genius in using a coat hangar to make a quick and easy custom rack to secure the desiccants around the transmission well.

Inspired, I was going to do the same thing, but then found these:
Super Compact Type! And with 350ml capacity, only 50ml less than those larger box versions! (Although yes, note Matthew's are heavy duty at 750ml!!)
 The trick of course is to make sure they don't tip over and spill. In my case, I decided to place these under the front seats, as they are flat enough to do so.  And, they are tall enough so that they won't tip over, if they are placed under the seats.

However I was still concerned that they might end up moving about and ending up in the rear footwell, where someone could knock if over.

Hence, these super compact ones are great as they should slide UNDER my front seats and fit - but how to ensure they stay there?
peeled of the inner liner, ready to absorb!
And then because I'm not as clever as Matthew (and I'm lazy):
Velcro on the underside
Fits nicely under the passenger seat between the rail and the HDD unit for my Navi - and doesn't move!
On the driver's side, it similarly fits underneath the seat as well.

Of course I know the best way to prevent weird stuff buildup is to run the A/C occasionally - this also helps to lubricate all the A/C hosing/seals - but since I don't drive my car much anymore (lots of future mod planning at the moment, however), and even though my car is always parked in my covered garage, just in case, at minimum this will prevent any moisture in the air from collecting and causing any weird issues.  Not that my A/C or the car smells weird, this is strictly a prevention issue.

Have a couple more posts before the end of year coming up so stay tuned!

Professional Detail at Rapt - Finally!

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Here in Japan, it's a tradition at the end of the year to "clean up" - your house, your car(s), your finances, whatever... in fact it was hard to get a reservation to get my car professionally detailed so the following actually took place in late November of last year.

Anyway, so while I've been to RAPT several times in the past to get my windows tinted, my wheels painted, get a new look by painting the front lip spoiler and NISMO 400R side skirts installed, and the interior professionally cleaned, I've never yet had the exterior properly detailed. Until NOW.

So here is the car before I took it in. This was when I went back to the Nissan dealership to pick up a few parts - details coming soon! LOL.
Yes, very clean by any standard, but not clean enough....
When I dropped the car off at RAPT, initially we decided to go with his "standard" glass coating package, which is "G'Zox" from Soft99 Corporation.

I found an English website here that somewhat describes it: http://www.gzox.com/english/

Now, I'm not an expert on these so called "glass coatings" - I know they are big here in Japan, and presumably do away with the need to wax, polish or apply sealant to one's car on a frequent basis. Supposedly, instead of just coating the paint, these products "bond" to the paint, hence their longevity of 2-3 years at a time.

However, a day later Kabe-san called me to explain he had changed his mind. He wanted to use a different product, the top of the line one he offered called "Echelon Nano-fil" - and this also is a "glass coating" like the G'Zox. Best I can tell from the propaganda, this one has a more interlocked structure, which presumably explains why it lasts longer, but also might take longer to set.

Kabe-san explained the reason why he wanted to use the Echelon is because I keep my car fully garaged all year round, and don't drive in the rain, this would allow me to take advantage of the month that it takes for this coating to fully cure.  The G'zox works great but has a much shorter curing time, and he confessed, a shorter lifespan.  With the Nano-fil, he expected protection to continue for SIX YEARS, although I would not feel the slickness after "only" two years.   For the price I paid, I think I can redo this every two years without my wallet complaining...

Anyway when I picked up the car 10 days later (both Kabe-san and myself laughed at how over the years I had until now never gotten him to detail the car... "Finally!!"):

First, at RAPT (the pictures don't do the work justice - there is a certain gloss and sheen the human eye picks up that simply can't be replicated even with a DSLR - and of course the paint feels super slick and smooth):




Under his lights, car looks almost light grey!
Yes, he cleaned and then coated the wheels AND the brake calipers with the glass coating too
I took this opportunity to replace both rubber bump stops on the hood. A worn out one on the right side was causing the hood to droop a little on one side.

This is where that rubber bump stop goes.
So now the bonnet is lined up properly, or at least, the best it can be given 1990s Nissan body gap quality/technology:
Photo of the new one installed

Before bidding me farewell he also gave me this nice little maintenance kit:



Then later in my garage at home, under daylight and "normal" fluorescent lights:


Note the hood STILL isn't perfectly lined up, but at least it's evenly off...I'll fix soon...

Admittedly, on a silver car it's very difficult to see the differences, at least in a photo. Up close in real life, what I notice most is the marked reduction in swirls in the clear coat (the existing paint has to be perfected before a glass coating is applied), as well as the removal of built up grime and such in crevices.  For example, he took special care around the headlights, bringing back the black lining on top of the headlights, as well restoring the black on the turn signal grill slits and other black plastic.


Anyway, the car now looks great. Now, going forward, anything body work related will be to touch up or fix areas that need work, such as the front lip spoiler which always gets scraped up, and maybe replace the front GT-R emblem which always gets dinged up.   I also have collected some interesting parts that need to be added too, so eventually need to add those.

Most problematic now is, what am I going to do with all the Zaino stuff I have now... Kabe-San says that application of other products can sometimes make things look worse...??

Thomas Mangum's Midnight Purple R33 GT-R - Spec Check and Driving Impression! (Part 1)

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So recently my friend and fellow R33 GT-R fanatic Thomas Mangum invited me to drive his Midnight Purple machine.  I jumped at the chance – it would be a rare opportunity to drive a high spec car (and one with the HKS V Cam, too!) and compare against mine. 

When I pulled up to his house, I initially took some photos before jumping into the driver’s seat.   Thomas seemed embarrassed by how dirty his car was, but that couldn’t be helped as it’s parked outside and as a daily driver a car cover doesn’t make sense (for most people...).   Nevertheless the car was in good shape, nothing a nice wash and wax wouldn’t fix.

Purple disc rotor caps to match the Midnight Purple car. Nice touch. F50 Brembos with Biot 2 piece rotors!
Wheels are ENKEI RS05RR in 18x11J(!!!) with offset of 16.

A bit of trivia about these wheels - these were one of, if not THE first, sets of the RS055RR that Enkei made for the Skyline GT-Rs. How do we know? Because when Thomas and I went to Tokyo Auto Salon  that year, we noticed that the displayed wheels had some stickers that these wheels did not have. When we inquired, we were told that the first batch did not have the stickers, and further all the ENKEI reps there said they had never seen or known of a GT-R with them before! (ENKEI later mailed him the missing stickers!)
Essentially this is a custom made front bumper - I've never seen another quite like this.
I recall when Thomas asked me if I had ever seen this front bumper before when it came up for sale on Yahoo Auctions a few years back... obviously the answer was no. It seems to be a very clever design, incorporating cooling abilities along with the front canard aerodynamic effect.  It apparently was a one-off design for one of the JUN Auto racing cars [thanks to our friend Matt Rearick who remembered seeing the same item on Yahoo, and the description!] which meant that Thomas had to get clever to incorporate turn signals in order to make it street legal.

AutoSelect Tower Bar. ARC Cooling panel (no longer made).
Aluminum catch tank and UK GTROC Aluminum fuse box cover
I'm proud to say I did my bit to contribute to this engine, as the fuse box cover was something I gave Thomas a long time ago... Note also the relocated power steering pump fluid reservoir.

Aha! V Cam. I can only dream at this point. With a NISMO surge tank too!
Yep. I was eagerly looking forward to how differently this car would drive with the V Cam, given the HKS 2530kai turbos the car is running.

Carbon fiber hood (or bonnet in the Commonwealth?)
He has some interesting custom mods so I took photos of those. For example:
Custom carbon piece to direct air towards the intercooler. If well done, stuff like this adds to a car's allure and personality.
I've already pointed out the clever use of side turn signals used upfront. Here's another custom application:
Another interesting tidbit - oil cooler located here!
Due to the design of the bumper, Thomas couldn't place an engine oil cooler in the usual place (that is, under the left front lights in the front bumper). So naturally, he put this Greddy one up front behind the grill to ensure lots of airflow. Reminds me of the old NISMO set up (albeit that was underneath and behind the front lip spoiler).

Speaking of spoilers:
Genuine NISMO dry carbon 2 piece blade. Looks like the previous owner liked to advertise that fact.
For the back, he found a used NISMO 2 piece dry carbon spoiler blade.  He restored it best he could but you can still make out where someone had applied a NISMO sticker. (and yes, the blue car in the back ground is the ISF I'm slowly modifying...lol)

90mm AMUSE titanium exhaust. 
Thomas' car is equipped with this Amuse R1 titanium exhaust, which obviously maximizes exhaust flow and doesn't even pretend to really have any "muffling" capacities. This thing is LOUD!

Thomas later sent me a list of the specs of his car. For example, some highlights of the engine/powertrain are:
- N1 block bored to 86.5, N1 oil pump, N1 water pump
- Carrillo rods, Mahle pistons (both save weight)
- balanced and straightened crank by NAPREC
- NISMO crank and conrod bearings
- NAPREC high response head kit(ported, etc.)
- NISMO 600cc injectors/NISMO fuel pump
- R35 AFMs
- Tomei Powered oil pan baffle/metal head gasket (1.2mm)/timing belt
- Trust/Greddy Type R intercooler
- Okada Plasma Direct ignition coils
- HKS hard piping kit
- Advance 130A alternator

This is all managed by a custom flashed ROM that piggybacks on top of the OEM ECU. Thomas estimates about 600 horsepower. 

So how does this all add up, really? I’ll give my honest (good and bad) impressions on how the car drove, as well as photos of some interesting interior bits, in my next post...

Thomas Mangum's Midnight Purple R33 GT-R - Spec Check and Driving Impression! (Part 2)

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So once I had checked out the exterior of Thomas Mangum's 3H tuned R33 GT-R and talked about the mechanical bits, it was time to go for a drive.

First however I did a quick check of the interior.  Thomas' car has some interesting bits, although as interiors tend to be even more expressive of individual taste than exteriors (because interiors aren't as visible), my thoughts here might be a bit more subjective than usual.

Even though Thomas' car is a 1995 Series 1 (zenki), he has changed out the interior for Series 3 (kohki) bits - this means instead of the usual blue accented seats and door cards, he has the red accented seats and door cards.  To be honest, somewhat incongruous given the lack of a passenger airbag. But a minor "gripe" I guess (I suppose I'm a purist...)
Note red dotted door card. Momo steering wheel with the Nismo horn button.
You can also see his Greddy OLED boost controller mounted to the left of the steering column.
Those with sharp eyes will see the Bee-R rev limiter mounted below that.
Obviously an immediately obvious difference from my car are the white faced NISMO gauge clusters.  While I thought it would prove distracting, oddly enough it didn't bother me at all! In fact I can see how this might be better during the day, at least from a visibility perspective.
No airbag is giveaway for Series 1... got some interesting carbon-like pieces there though.
Looking closely, you can see 3 different carbon fiber patterns.  The main fascia is actually an extremely rare, OEM option, carbon fiber print-like fascia.  The carbon pattern on the shift surround however is a clear print, and the driver's side door switch panel is carbon wrapped. Not for me, but an interesting collection!

More interesting however are the Nissan OEM optional knee bolsters:
For right knee
These parts rarely pop up on Yahoo Auctions, and so usually the sellers ask for lots of yen. Clearly good if you value bracing yourself during hard cornering over hearing the output of the driver side door speaker...
For left knee
Finally, this was cool - a genuine Top Secret shift boot! With the shifter capped off with a Tomei shift knob:
The NISMO plaque is an add on...
SO...putting aside the interior aesthetics and my subjective commentary on it, how does the car DRIVE?

Ok well the first thing I noticed was the Series 3 transmission Thomas installed - in a word, superb. I was blown away by how the shifter is so direct and precise - of course not in the league of the NSX I drove a while back, but way better than the gearbox I had in my car (before GETRAG).  In fact, even compared to the GETRAG now installed in my car, being totally honest with myself, I'd have to say I prefer how this feels - a no-slop, no-slack, extremely direct gearbox - not as heavy feeling as the GETRAG either.  Thomas told me he has a short shift kit but it must be the NISMO Quick Shift (with a 25% shorter stroke), I previously had the NISMO Solid Shift (only 10% shorter stroke) but it did not feel like this!

Second thing I noticed was how hard and stiff the suspension was as I drove around town. Usually this is something that one notices as a passenger, not as the driver.  "Don't worry" Thomas said with a grin from the passenger seat, "You'll see how it all smooths out on the Wangan." The car is running Greddy S Spec Full tap dampers, with spring rates of 10 kg-m front and 8kg-m rear - this is a custom set up he selected, seeking the best balance between livability on surface streets and control while blasting on the Wangan. And he was right - when we later took the car on the expressway, the car not only felt stable, smooth and responsive, but the balance was superb.

Speaking of balance, one area which I thought could be improved was the brakes. This car runs F50 Brembos up front on 355 millimeter BIOT 2 piece rotors (Endless brake pads), and the OEM rear Brembos using custom brackets on 350mm VQ36 Skyline rears rotors (Project mu pads).  If you recall from when I installed the R35 brakes on my car, old thinking was the need to have bigger rotors up front with smaller in the back. More recently the thinking is that, having the rear rotor almost as large as the front can only help and in fact contribute to more stability. Nissan apparently realized this during the production run of the RB26 GT-Rs, which is why the last R34s had larger OEM rear rotors.

In fact this set up is now a popular conversion in Japan, giving great stopping power at a very reasonable price,  although you will need 18 inch wheels (which most people upgrade to anyway) as this combo is too large for the stock wheels.  Stopping from speed wasn't a problem in this car, but not sure if it's the inherent front brake bias, or the different pads, or the lack of a digital G-sensor (its function affects the braking as I discovered), but I just felt there was too much emphasis on the fronts - not necessarily a bad thing but subjectively not what I am used to anymore.

Finally, two areas where this car has a very different personality from my car - the handling and the engine power delivery.

Driving around town, the handling didn't seem too different from most GT-Rs I've driven. And it wasn't that different when making lane changes on the expressway.  It was when I was making a sweeping right turn at about 60kph, getting onto the expressway, when I noticed how the rear end of the car felt more planted and direct than mine.  Hard to describe but it was almost an oversteer effect, meaning that the fronts could focus on getting the car through the curve as quickly and neutrally as possible.  Thomas believes this is a result of having SuperPro bushings all around, I think it might be his rear camber at -2 degrees (according to Thomas) as well as how he has rear roll center adjusters installed.  It also might be his disconnected Super HICAS, although I've driven other cars with locked out rears and suspect the camber angle as most likely the reason for this rear end agility.  Anyway, this experience has inspired me to start thinking of upgrades to my car in the same way!

Finally, the engine.  Obviously I was curious about how the V Cam was going to affect things. Since I hadn't driven his car BEFORE he installed the V Cam, I can't give a direct comparison, but with the larger 2530kai turbos, I expected that the car would have suffered from turbo lag and then boom!  When I asked Thomas, he did confirm that before he'd find himself having to shift down from say 5th to 3rd, to raise the RPMS, in order to get enough torque by engaging the turbos (which came on full at about 4500 rpm he says). Not only did this cause him to end up working with a very small rev range (before having to shift up) but the sudden increase in torque would cause his rear end to violently swing out on occasion.

Driving it now, the V Cam is programmed to kick in smoothly and provide enough torque down low such that the transition from the V Cam to when the turbos kick in is seamless.  In other words, the engine feels like a much larger engine with a gradually increasing torque from lower RPMs reaching a maximum torque value somewhere in the 5000rpm range.

I've heard that with V Cam, it makes the smallish RB26 feel like a larger engine - and now I get it.  At least on the bottom end, Thomas' car DID feel like it had a larger naturally aspirated engine. Of course once the turbos kick in it still has the GT-R flavor.

Finally, while I did not drive the car at night, Thomas later sent me this photo to show off his LED upgrades to the gauges. This guy is REALLY into purple....

And so the purple motif continues even at night...
Thank you very much Thomas for the opportunity - it's given me some inspiration for my car but also  reassurance that my car is in good shape as well.

Stay tuned as I have some minor tweaks coming up very soon!

Carbon Fiber Bumper Exhaust Surround, Renewal

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So if you've seen pictures of the rear bumper of my car, I've had this thin dry carbon fiber exhaust surround I found on Yahoo Auctions back in 2008!
With the newly installed Tomei ExPreme Exhaust
Obviously, the goal here is to protect the bumper from all the soot the RB26 engine spews out.
Long-time readers know that my car was used as the jig to develop the exhaust, and that this shot
  was used for their catalog

While it still looks great from a distance, I was becoming aware that the heat of the exhaust, as well as it's location on the rear edge of the bumper, was wreaking havoc on the carbon.
A close-up reveals these flaws.
But that's ok... it's much easier to remove and replace this piece, than to have the bumper touched up. In fact, I took the piece off before I had my car detailed, so that all the surrounding areas (and underneath) could be properly cleaned and protected.

 I then went back to find the vendor on Yahoo Auctions, 5000 yen and 3 days later:
Old one obviously the one not wrapped up.
Here you can compare directly. Camera angle shot makes old one on left look larger.

As you can see this carbon is really thin, but since it's not bolted on, replacement is an easy affair. Just take off the old one, clean the bumper (I had taken it off before the detail at RAPT), then simply slap back on using the double stick tape.

You can see the remnants of the tape on the old one on top.

Like this:
Truth be told the tape is old and I may need to readjust later

Make sure the area around the exhaust is clean:

A quick wipe with a microfiber towel, then
Peel off the backing of the double stick tape, then slap on making sure one edge slips between the bumper and the spat:

Easy!

Later, after a quick drive:
Can't even tell it's been replaced.
Oh, and I dropped into Nissan to order some minor bits so I will have another update on this blog soon!... stay tuned and thanks for reading!

First Visit to WORX Auto Alarm

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So last weekend, my friend Dino and I decided to visit with Nakamura-san, owner of a very interesting and special shop, Worx Auto Alarm, located in Chiba near beaches famous with the surfing crowd.  It was a nice day for a drive, so despite my having known Dino for more than 10 years,  I decided to let him drive my car for the first time.  I figured a man who has driven more cars than I can count, who's not getting paid to drive it, can give me his objective impressions on my car.  And yes he did!  So I'll post those up in an upcoming post.

We arrived mid-afternoon on a cloudy day - sunlight hit it just right I think!
Anyway, Nakamura-san is famous in Japan due to his love for the RB26 GT-Rs (he is especially a big fan of the R33, he told me!) and his work, especially, as his shop name states, on car alarms for them (even in Japan these cars have a high theft rate).  He also does car stereo and other electrical stuff so for basically anything electrical, he's THE guy.

He's done the installs for the cars owned by and featured in GT-R Magazine and the like, so he's widely known in the GT-R community here in Japan.  Here are some examplesof what he does for GT-Rs. Most importantly for us R33 owners who want a modern 2DIN stereo head unit, is perhaps this:
Check out how cleanly the HVAC is installed there!
From: http://www.worxautoalarm.co.jp/specialcontent/gtr/
Recently, Dino had some work done on his BNR34 (installing some switchback LEDs from VLEDS) and featured it on Speedhunters. What impressed me the most, as well as I'm sure many people, was the level of attention to detail Nakamura-san takes in making sure the wiring is neat and clean:



So as not to get the jumbled mess of spaghetti found in my car:
I'm blaming SuperAutobacs for this... when I got my Pioneer Navi installed by them back in 2006!
In addition to being a rabid 2nd generation GT-R fan (he's got one of every model), he also has some other interesting cars in his collection. One being this Fiat thing which apparently he bought because he loved what the print ads said at the time "In Pursuit of Ferrari" or something like that...

It does have an Abarth badge...

Anyway, he's got some other vehicles like this very Americanone.  For me, however, is the excitement of finally meeting someone who is just as, if not more, OCD than me and who is willing and able to help me on the one part of the R33 that oozes 90s Nissan cheapness, the interior.

Alas, after the 3 of us talked excitedly non-stop for 2 hours, Dino and I decided to pack up and head back... but not before we cruised by the beach near the ocean, where I took this photo.
I think this is the limit of my iPhone's camera (and my photography skills!)...

Stay tuned, the rest of 2016 is going to be full of goodness, I just know!
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